The 19th Century European Race In Jerusalem

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Jerusalem over the centuries switched hands as frequently as one looses his/her socks. From Canaanites to Judeans to Babylonians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Muslims, Crusaders, Muslims (again)...Each empire veni, vidi, vici’ed separately. But in the 19th century things got even messier.

With the sick man upon the Bosphorus (i.e the Ottoman Empire) getting even sicker due to the Crimean war against the Russians, The Middle Eastern Question was asked. Who would rule this region next? Jerusalem stood out like a golden trophy up for grabs. Each empire was prepared to pounce with the shot of the gun. But with no starting line visible nor a referee to judge or shoot the gun, then edging in slowly was the name of the game. 

Let’s leave the old city behind and visit Jerusalem’s little Europe…

France:  Notre Dame Monastery

1882, Le Grand Caravan de Mille, which was a pilgrimage of a 1000 rich French Catholics made their way to Israel. After the long rigid journey they reached the city only to discover that they had no room to sleep. Tents were put up for them outside the “New Gate” of today and there in the flabby habitants, they spent their entire visit.The Notre Dame Jerusalem

This could have perhaps been a nice “out door” experience but as an eye sore, every night, as they went to sleep, they witnessed before them how the Russian Orthodox pilgrims would rest in their luxuries compound, in real beds, 4 walls and roof above their heads. Disgrace! And so, after the long journey, The count Marie Paul Amedee De Piellat collected money and built the Notre Dame Monastery and inn for Catholic pilgrims coming to visit the Holy Land.

The structure contains a chapel and two impressive tall towers in the Baroque style between them is a statue of the Madonna holding the young baby Jesus in her arms. The structure is designed in a neoclassical symmetrical style. During the 1948 Israeli Independence war, Israeli troops took over the structure and the Jordan- Israel boarder passed right bellow it. Over the years Israel returned the structure back to the Vatican who today run the structure as an inn once more.

Russia:

One would think that after the Crimean war you would not find Russians in the vicinity. Quite the contrary, the Russians were one of the first to build their own compound in Jerusalem. Politics and God work in mysteries ways. The Russian Czar Alexander II who had become concerned about the Russian pilgrims in the Holy Land, decided to erect the Russian Compound just north of the Old City.

The location was chosen because of its proximity to the Old City and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher on the boundary between New Jerusalem and the Old City.  The site contained the Holy Trinity Church, a hostel for men and a hostel for women and of course, a hostel for the rich built by the Prince Serge (it had its own indoor toilets!).The Sergei building in Jerusalem

Due to the Bolshevik revolution the orthodox pilgrims disappeared and the British took over the structures changing them in to courthouses and prisons. Sadly, several Jews were hung here during the Mandate. After Israel became a state they tried buying the compound from the Russians with Oranges, known as the “Orange Deal” but only managed to buy part of it off. Today it is part owned by Israel and part by Russia.

Italy: The Italian Hospital; 29 Shivtai Yisrael st. 

The Italians wanted a piece of Israel too, why not? And so they decided to do so by building a hospital. In 1910 a tall renaissance building was erected, with a chapel and a bell tower. The Capitoline Wolf symbol was placed on the bell tower in order to remind all of Rome’s founding story (Romulus and Remus) and who’s who.

The structure was not much in Italian use since it was not completed or used till after WWI, soon came along WWII when it was taken by the British Royal Air Force and finally Israel took the structure in 1948 and turned it over to the Ministry of Education. No hard feelings Italy. You’re still the 5th most visited country in the world.The Italian Hospital in Jerusalem

Germany: 42 Niviim st

The German Protestant priests held a home here on Neviim st. The structure contained a small church and a dining hall. The structure was built due to the historical visit of the Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1898 much like many other structures like the Lutheran church in the old city and the Augusta Victoria Church on Mount of Olives.

In this spot Theodor Hertzl, the father of Modern Zionism, met up with the Kaiser in order to ask his assistance in gaining the Ottoman Sultans permission to build a state here for Jews. FYI, the Kaiser said no. And so did the Sultan. Guess, God does work in mysterious ways…

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